Old Nashville is alive and well at Tootsies
Walking the Floor by Chris O’Kelley
The last of Nashville’s true old fashioned honky-tonk bars sits, just as it has since 1960, at 422 Broadway, tucked neatly behind the legendary Ryman Auditorium. To understand why Tootsies Orchid Lounge plays a significant role in country music, you must know the history.
Country music took off in 1925 with the establishment of the Grand Ole Opry, a live country music radio show that aired on WSM radio in Nashville. The first Opry broadcasts originated from a 5th floor studio in the National Life & Accident Insurance Company building in downtown Nashville.
Over the years, the show outgrew many studios and locations, finally settling in the Ryman in June of 1943.
Originally, Lower Broadway was home to gentlemen’s clubs, pawn shops and other businesses that didn’t quite fit the country music coming out of the Ryman Auditorium – until 1960.
That’s when bar owner Hattie Louise “Tootsie” Bess bought the business at 422 Broadway. Originally known as Mom’s, Bess turned it into what is now considered the original honky-tonk. One morning, during construction, Bess came in to check in on the work being done, only to find the painters had used the wrong color and painted the building the color of an orchid. With a couple coats of paint, a Nashville legend was born.
Just behind the back doors of Tootsies Orchid Lounge is a small alley connecting to the Ryman Auditorium. The backstage area of the Ryman is very small, so after artists played the Opry, they would walk over to Tootsie’s for a drink and a place to hang.
Many of the artists would get on stage and play more songs since they were there. That led to a tradition that continues to this day. You never know who will show up and play music. I had a friend, on my recommendation, go to Tootsies only to leave because it was too crowded. The next day she learned Garth Brooks had shown up and played several songs.
Many artists’ careers have started playing cover sets at Tootsies. They aren’t paid to play. They live by the tip jar. Be it Willie Nelson, Terri Clark, or Chris Janson – so many artists have played Tootsies night after night trying to get seen by the right person.
Although Tootsies Orchid Lounge is country music’s most famous honky-tonk, live music now runs all up and down Lower Broad. The new thing happening is the addition of bars branded with the names of current country music artists. In some cases, they are in name only, but some are owned by the musician with their name above the door.
These include:
Alan Jackson – AJ’s Good Time Bar
Blake Shelton – Ole Red Nashville
Morgan Wallen – Morgan Wallen’s This Time Bar & Tennessee Kitchen
Eric Church – Chiefs
Dierks Bently – Dierks Bentley’s Whiskey Row
Jason Aldean – Jason Aldean’s Kitchen & Rooftop Bar
Luke Bryan – Luke’s 32 Bridge Food & Drink
Miranda Lambert – Miranda Lambert’s Casa Rosa Tex-Mex Cantina
Lainey Wilson – Lainey Wilson’s Bell Bottoms Up
Even the rock stars are now opening bars and kitchens on Lower Broad, including Kid Rock and Jon Bon Jovi.
My suggestion to Nashville visitors is take a seat at Tootsies Orchid Lounge and enjoy some great country music. You never know who will play and they may be selling out football stadiums in the years to come. Go in the front door, stay on the lower level, pull up a stool, and stay awhile.